We crossed the Atlantic and approached Mexico to tour oaxacaone of the 31 states that the country has, in addition to Mexico City.
We visited a territory of enormous diversity where a World Heritage City (Oaxaca de Juarez)pre-Hispanic archaeological sites, 16 different ethnic groups, mountains of more than 3000 meters and the beaches of the Pacific, as well as a gastronomy that also has its Unesco recognition.
On The rooster that never stops we discovered this region of southeastern Mexico.
The rooster that never stops – Land without limits: Oaxaca, natural and cultural wealth – Listen now
A large and diverse state
Oaxaca is located in the southeast of the country. It is a large territory, like Castilla y León, which is divided into eight regions and with enormous biological and cultural diversity. Jorge Alvareza guide to the Central Valleys, defines it as “a gigantic state, of 92,000 square kilometers, where we are fortunate to have many cultures and many ethnic groups that throw us endless traditions.”
The eight regions have very varied landscapes ranging from the beaches of the Pacific to 3,750 meters above sea level in cloud hill. Peter Xavier Torresthe president of the certified guides of Oaxaca in Mexico, sums up its diversity of landscapes in this way: “In the mountains, the mixed coniferous forests stand out, on the coast very beautiful beaches (…) and also the gastronomy is delicious.”
This rugged orography has caused many towns to remain isolated and hence all this cultural and ethnic wealth. Diversity is also perceived in the handicrafts that they elaborate and each town works one in particular: the red clay in Juchitan Oaxacathe alebrijes in San Martin Tilcajetethe cutlery in Ocotlan de Morelos…
Oaxacan artisan working with clay. GETTY IMAGES
A World Heritage City
The Central Valleysone of the eight regions of the state, is located in the center and is the starting point of any route since the capital, Oaxaca de Juárez, a city declared a World Heritage Site, is located there.
Its grid streets, built according to Spanish colonial urban planning, take us back to colonial times, although its past is enormously rich: “The city contains a great history. Since before the arrival of Spanish culture, Oaxaca has been extremely important for its cocoa route and this historical combination between Mesoamerica and the colonial part makes Oaxaca very special”, explains Julius Caesar Victoria Pinachothe president of the Association of Cultural Guides of Oaxaca.
All this is reflected in the architecture. You have to stop at places like the Zocalo Squarewhere are the Cathedral or the Government Palacevisit its churches, some of which are very beautiful, or approach the food marketto appreciate the biological wealth of the state in the products that are sold.
The emblematic cathedral of Santo Domingo, in the historic center of the city of Oaxaca. GETTY IMAGES
In addition, being the capital, people of different ethnic groups arrive here; that is to say, that in the city of Oaxaca the cultural diversity of Oaxaca is also concentrated.
And on specific dates, this richness is still appreciated, if possible, because there are festivals that enhance coexistence between cultures, the most important being the Guelaguetza. The dances, the music and the dances that are seen on those days are a sample of the wealth of Oaxaca.
Excursions of all kinds
Many routes start from the city through the surroundings that bring us closer, for example, to one of the archaeological sites most interesting of the Central Valleys.
Monte Alban It is one of the busiest since it is located a few steps from the center of Oaxaca and is recognized as a World Heritage Site. For 1,500 years, peoples like the Olmecthe Zapotecs or the Mixtecs. His views are unforgettable: “From here you have an impressive view of any place because you are in 360 degrees and you can see the entire spectacle of the valley,” summarizes Jorge.
Monte Albán, a large pre-Columbian archaeological site of one of the earliest cities in Mesoamerica, located in Oaxaca, Mexico. GETTY IMAGES
In addition to these sites, there are also towns with a considerable tangible and intangible heritage, such as Culiapam de Guerrero or San Martin de Tilcajete and places where nature is the protagonist such as “herve el agua”, where water and stone shape pools and stone waterfalls that fall from the top of the mountain. “It’s very exciting when people come and discover one of the biggest attractions in the area.”
The good thing about Oaxaca and the Central Valleys is that we look for what we are looking for, we will find it: whether we want culture and heritage, or if we opt for nature or gastronomy linked to that side, both natural and cultural.
Traditional gastronomy and mezcal
The gastronomy of Oaxaca is declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity because it is an expression of the identity of its peoples and the richness of the territory.
“With the diversity of microclimates in Oaxaca, there is practically everything,” says the chef Alejandro Ruiz Olmedowho says many cooks refer to the state as “Mexico’s culinary pantry.”
Tlayuda, traditional food from Oaxaca. GETTY IMAGES
Gastronomy is served from this pantry and also from some ancestral knowledge that have come down to our days. “It is influenced by the conquest, by Arab cuisine, by Asian cuisine and of course pre-Hispanic cuisine. It is traditional but it is also at the forefront.” To try the typical dishes, we can go to a restaurant or to the market in Oaxaca.
As for the drink, there are options for all tastes and times of the day: white or red atoles, walnut tejate, pozol… and of course the famous mezcalpart of the Oaxacan identity. Instead of drinks, it is drunk with kisses, although it is not advisable to go overboard with the signs of love.
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